Ismangaliso Wetland Park
Close to the ground.

GPS: S 28 21.391 E 032 25.214 | elevation 23 m/75 ft, 035-590-1633, reservations 033-845-1000, www.isimangaliso.com

iSimangaliso Wetland Park is one of the most beautiful and diverse nature reserves in the country. Eight unique ecosystems span 3,320 square kilometers of South African landscape from the Mozambique border in the north to Mapelane, just south of the St Lucia Estuary. The name iSimangaliso means “miracle” in isiZulu, and rightfully so. Its subtropical coastline has 280 kilometers of pristine white-sand beaches, spectacular coastal dunes and rugged rocky cliffs. They buffer a myriad of freshwater swamps, lakes, wooded forests, sprawling savannah grasslands, and South Africa’s biggest estuary system. These are the largest protected wetlands in the country, recognized in 1999 when the region became the first place in South Africa to be deemed a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Formerly called the Greater St Lucia Wetland Park, iSimangaliso is South Africa’s third largest park and its diverse landscapes are home to more species of animals than the more popular Kruger National Park. The country’s largest populations of hippos and crocodiles live here; they can be seen lazing about in Lake St Lucia and roaming the estuary, a good reason why locals warn against getting too close to the water. The giant leatherback and loggerhead turtles prefer the soft sands of the Indian Ocean when they come ashore under the cover of night, November through February, to lay their eggs. Driving through the park you may also encounter elephants, black and white rhinos, leopards, cheetah, buffalo, giraffes, wild dog, and a wide range of antelope. The park is also a birder’s paradise with over 520 species thriving in the lush and varied environs. You could easily lose yourself here for a few days with the available amount of things to do and places to explore. Certain areas of the park can get extremely crowded during holidays and on long weekends when hordes of South Africans flock to the park. Its advisable to avoid these tourist trap times to keep expenses low and better appreciate all that the park has to offer.

Note that malaria is present in the park and proper precautions are advised. The iSimangaliso 24-hour emergency hotline is 082-797-7944.

Mapelane

Mapelane

Mapelane is the southernmost reserve within the park, and just south of the town of St Lucia. There is excellent shore and deep-sea fishing as well as two self-guided hiking trails. The reserve is also home to South Africa's highest vegetated sand dune, standing 183 km high with a view that goes on for miles. It is a birder's hot spot, but there is other estuary wildlife as well including hippo, crocodile and monkeys, so be careful near the river edge and keep your swimming pursuits to the ocean. If this isn't remote enough, the camp issues up to three beach driving permits per day (R250) that allow you to drive on the beach up to 7 km south of Mapelane. To get there, take the P232 turnoff from the N2 near Kwambonambi. The road is tarred at first, but eventually becomes gravel. After 28.4 km the P232 becomes the L622. Continue 17.2 km more until you reach the Mapelane Camp Ground.


Western Shores

Western Shores

Western Shores including Fani's Island and Charters Creek were closed at the time of research due to severe drought and necessary renovations. Efforts are underway to address the water shortages and make improvements, and we hope that these gems will be reopened sometime in 2011. The Western Shores of Lake St Lucia have excellent angling and bird watching and are home to elephant, buffalo and rhino. Charters Creek camp is situated on a cliff edge with dramatic, panoramic views across the lake, excellent for viewing the resident flamingos, pelicans, hippos and crocodiles. Call the iSimangaliso Wetland Authority for updated information.

To get there turn off the N2 (S 28 15.022 E 032 17.139) 20 km north of Mtubatuba or 32 km south of Hluhluwe and head east toward Charters Creek. Continue to follow the signs along the tar road for 13 km and then another 5 km on gravel road to get to the Charters Creek Camp.


Charters Creek

Charters Creek is situated on Lake St Lucia and surrounded by lush forest with 14 campsites, a number of chalets and a family cottage. All facilities are self-catering and there is a swimming pool to cool off in.


Eastern Shores

Eastern Shores

The Eastern Shores is where safari meets pristine white sand beach. Just 32 km north of the town of St Lucia and accessed by the Bhangazi Gate, Cape Vidal is a popular beach destination surrounded by lush forested coastal dunes. A colorful coral reef breaks an otherwise dangerous current and allows for safe swimming and underwater exploring. Legend has it that it was in these waters that the gold-laden Dorothea shipwrecked in 1898. Every year, scuba divers and snorkelers hope to find its lost riches amongst the hard and soft corals of the reef. Fishing and boating are also popular, and the bay has a designated launch site for boats.

In late May through December humpback whales pass by the Eastern Shores, leading their young south from Mozambique through the warm waters of the Indian Ocean. Giant leatherback and loggerhead turtles emerge to lay their eggs in the sand beginning in November. Midnight excursions offer a chance to witness these impressive creatures and the heroic journey of the newborns as they head back out to the sea. To get there from St Lucia, head 3 km north of town on McKenzie St to the Bhangazi Gate.


Bhangazi Horse Safaris

Bhangazi Horse Safaris is run by a couple of experienced horseback riders and offers rides within the iSimangaliso Park for all skill levels. Rides range from two-hour beach or game rides to all-inclusive multiday safari trips through the park.


False Bay

False Bay

False Bay is a serene section of the park located on the western shores of Lake St Lucia. This less traveled area is excellent for bird watching, and normally is great for fishing and boating, but at the time of research the lake was quite low. Fishermen are advised to check on the levels of the lake prior to arrival. Self-guided hiking trails lead you through sand forest, woodlands and savannah. The Mpophomeni Trail (10 km) is an easy day hike through the forest with numerous signs highlighting trees of interest. The Dugandlovu Trail (16 km) is a day hike, which can be turned into an overnight if you want to sleep in one of the huts at the Dugandlovu Rustic Camp (4-person huts, R130/person). The shorter Ingwe Trail (6 km) stretches along the shore before turning into the forest and offers expansive views of the lake. When the water is low, you can see fossils of marine animals and coral. To get to False Bay, take Route 22/Lubombo Rd east of Hluhluwe and follow the signs to False Bay. It's about 15 km from town.


uMkhuze Reserve

uMkhuze Reserve

uMkhuze Reserve is an inland game reserve with a dizzying array of wildlife. Black and white rhino, elephants, cheetah, buffalo, hyena and various antelope, not to mention over 420 species of birds call this park home. Guided walks through the reserve are an excellent way to explore. Take a guided tour of the Sycamore Fig Forest or set your own pace with a self-guided drive.

There are two entrance gates into uMkhuze: the eMshophi Gate (S 27 38.746 E 032 09.049) on the western side and the Ophansi Gate (S 27 35.953 E 032 17.910) on the eastern side. To get to the eMshophi Gate (S 27 38.746 E 032 09.049), get off of the N2 at the town of Mkuze, continue 2 km through the town and turn right at the T-junction. Continue along a gravel road for 6 km and turn left at the sign indicating the uMkhuze section of iSimangaliso. Continue for 9 km until you reach the gate. To get to the Ophansi Gate (S 27 35.953 E 032 17.910) turn west off the R22 onto the D820 (S 27 39.154 E 032 25.279), roughly 28 km south of Mbazwana and 50 km north of Hluhluwe. Continue on the road for 14 km and follow the sign to make a left turn into uMkhuze.


Lake Sibaya and Coastal Forest

Lake Sibaya and Coastal Forest

The Lake Sibaya and Coastal Forest section of the park is only accessible by 4x4 vehicles and access to specific day visitor sites is limited to a handful of vehicles, but for those who do venture to this northern section of the park it is well worth it. Pristine beaches framed by lush coastal dunes stretch out as far as the eye can see. Permits are available at Manzengwenya Office (S 27 15.687 E 032 46.157, 035-574-8998, 7am-4pm).

The Lake Sibaya itself is South Africa's largest freshwater lake at 65 square kilometers, and is second only to Lake St Lucia for its population of hippos and crocodiles.

Scuba diving and snorkeling are popular off the beaches of Mabibi (S 27 19.862 E 032 45.039) and Island Rock (S 27 16.624 E 032 46.385), while Lala Nek (S 27 13.482 E 032 47.669), Rocktail Bay (S 27 11.115 E 032 48.382), Black Rock (S 27 08.054 E 032 49.800) and Dog Point (S 27 06.391 E 032 50.518) are popular beach and swimming spots. Other activities include birding, hiking and fishing.

To get there, take the R22 18 km north of Mbazwana and turn east at the Coastal Forest turnoff (S 27 13.174 E 032 32.831). Continue along this road for 23 km until just before the coast where there is a southbound trail to Lake Sibaya signed Thonga/Mabibi, or continue another 2 km to the Manzengwenya Office (S 27 15.687 E 032 46.157) and northbound trail signed Rocktail Bay.


Tours

Advantage Tours

Advantage Tours is based out of St Lucia and is currently the only legally licensed company for boat-based whale watching within the iSimangaliso Wetland Park. They are approved by Fair Trade in Tourism South Africa. Whale watching season is late May through December, when giant humpback whales migrate to the warm waters near the coastline to calf and breed. Tours last two hours and sightings are guaranteed, otherwise you get a 40 percent refund. It offers late-night turtle tours to Cape Vital from November-February. Advantage can also arrange a variety of activities including hippo/croc boat tours along the estuary, game reserve tours to Hluhluwe-Imfolozi, horseback riding, deep-sea fishing and more.


SHAKAbarker Tours

SHAKAbarker Tours, based out of St Lucia, is run by registered tour guide Kian Barker. They offer tours into iSimangaliso including night turtle tours, whale watching, game drives, hiking and snorkeling.


Mapelane

Mapelane Camp

Mapelane Camp has rustic accommodations in 40 campsites and ten five-sleeper log cabins, some with views of the Indian Ocean. Three cabins have been fully refurbished and are slightly more expensive. There is a small shop that sells ice and charcoal, but you'll have to bring in whatever food and water that you want. Campsites have no electricity.


Western Shores

Charters Creek

Charters Creek is situated on Lake St Lucia and surrounded by lush forest with 14 campsites, a number of chalets and a family cottage. All facilities are self-catering and there is a swimming pool to cool off in.


Eastern Shores

Cape Vidal Camp

Cape Vidal Camp is located beside the sandy beaches and rolling grassy dunes. It has 50 campsites and fully equipped three-bedroom log cabins that sleep up to eight people.


Bhangazi Bush Lodge

There are also fishing cabins right near the beach and a more private Bhangazi Bush Lodge located 8 km from the Cape Vidal Camp on the shores of the Bhangazi Lake. It sleeps up to eight people in four fully equipped free-standing bush huts and can only be booked by one party at a time.


False Bay

False Bay Camp

False Bay Camp has a lakeside campground with basic campsites and a small store with ice and drinks. There is also the Dugandlovu Rustic Camp (R130/person) for those hiking on the Dugandlovu Trail. There are four huts that sleep up to four people each and have fridges, but you'll need to bring your own linens.


uMkhuze Reserve

Mantuma Camp

Mantuma Camp is the main camp in the park. It has a swimming pool, a small shop selling ice, beverages and basic supplies, and the Rhin-o-Dino restaurant. There are a range of accommodation options including cottages, chalets, en suite safari tents, and a group of rest huts sharing a self-catering kitchen and ablution facilities.


Nhlonhlela Bush Lodge

Nhlonhlela Bush Lodge is secluded, with four separate en suite chalets overlooking the Nhlonhlela Pan with spectacular views of birds and animals, depending on the water level. The camp comes with a field ranger and cook (you bring the food).


Lake Sibaya and the Coastal Forest

Thonga Beach Lodge

Thonga Beach Lodge is a luxury lodge with 12 huts spread out just inside of the forest. With views of the ocean, Thonga Lodge is only steps from Mabibi Beach. Rates include three quality meals, guided walks, kayaking and sundowners at Lake Sibaya. Transfers can be arranged for R175/person.


Mabibi Camp

Mabibi Camp is a basic camp with 10 sites located a short walk from Mabibi beach and Thonga Beach Lodge. There are hot showers, water taps and braai stands but no electricity. People staying at the campsite can usually head over to the Thonga Beach Lodge bar and it is possible to join diving activities based at Thonga Beach Lodge if there is availability.


Rocktail Beach Camp

Rocktail Beach Camp has 17 lovely cottages that surround a main central lodge with a viewing deck and cocktail bar. It is located in the green-forested dunes about 700 meters from endless stretches of empty beach in both directions. The lodge is owned by a large company that operates accommodations throughout southern Africa. There is great scuba diving to be had on the many nearby reefs.