The Kingdom of Swaziland stands as Africa’s last remaining absolute monarchy and has largely avoided western influence in its day-to-day culture and traditions. Each year, the kingdom-wide Umhlanga (reed) dance and Incwala (first fruits) ceremonies attract tens of thousands of Swazis and visitors hoping to bear witness to these unique events.

The small landlocked country is encircled by South Africa and Mozambique. It boasts a handful of nature reserves and game parks that, like Swazi culture, have remained relatively unexplored by foreigners. While they don’t compare in size or refined amenities to parks in neighboring South Africa, some consider Swazi reserves superior for their solitude and rustic beauty.

Deep in the Lubombo Mountains that form Swaziland’s eastern border, archaeologists have found 100,000-year-old human-like fossils and remnants of ancient human inhabitation of the region. But the history of the Swazi kingdom is much more recent and begin with the Nguni-speaking Bantu migrants who settled around present day Maputo, Mozambique in the 1500s. There, they established themselves as the Ngwane people and for roughly 200 years, they built a kingdom along the coast that thrived from heavy commerce and the ever-developing Indian Ocean sea trade.

In the mid-1700s, King Dlamini III led his followers over the Lubombo Mountains in search of greener pastures and they settled in the present-day Shiselweni region and further south towards the fertile Pongola River Valley. There, the Ngwane vied for land with other emerging Nguni groups such as the Ndwandwe and the Mthethwa. By the early 1800s, intense warfare overcame the region and in 1819 the Ngwane were driven further north.

The Ngwane reestablished their kingdom in what today is central Swaziland. Their leader, King Subhuza, proved to be a skilled statesman and expanded his reign by conquering, incorporating, and often coexisting with Sotho, Tswana and Nguni tribes. These early alliances led to the eventual assimilation of different tribes into the culturally diverse Swazi nation. But it was Sobhuza’s son, Mswati II, after whom the Swazis were named, who possessed the true military might to consolidate and expand his kingdom to the north and west.

Swazis first came into contact with British missionaries and Boer Voortrekkers in the 1840s, as the Boers expanded across South Africa to distance themselves from the British Cape Colony. While most other kingdoms and tribes in the region attempted to fight off the foreigners in armed conflict, King Mswati treated both the Boers and the British as allies against rival tribes, most notably the powerful Zulu kingdom to the south. The tactic proved to be to Mswati’s benefit. Instead of being subjugated or displaced by the advancing Boers, the Swazi kingdom flourished. King Mswati continued to expand his territorial claims through a series of incursions north and northeast, including against Portuguese soldiers stationed in Lorenco Marques, in present-day Mozambique. By the time of King Mswati II’s death in 1865, Swazi reign extended from the Limpopo River in the north to the Pongola River in the south and to the Crocodile River in the west.

But the Swazi territorial heyday was short-lived. Mswati had failed to grasp the threat that European presence posed to his people’s traditional way of life and did not fully comprehend the colonists’ ulterior motives. The Boers, who aimed to establish their own independent republic apart from the British colonial authorities, declared their own Zuid-Afrikaansche Republiek (ZAR) in 1856. But the early Boer government was weakened by ongoing frontier battles and in 1877 the British annexed the ZAR. The Swazis saw the British coup as an opportunity to defeat their own tribal enemies and aligned with the British to subdue the remaining powerful kingdoms that resisted colonial domination.

After the First Anglo-Boer War, when the Boers successfully reclaimed their republic, the British and Boer government signed a peace treaty acknowledging Swazi independence, but took away much of kingdom’s territory. The 1881 treaty established the western and northern borders of Swaziland and in one fell swoop signed large tracts of Swazi land that had been consolidated throughout the reign of Sobhuza and Mswati II over to the Boer republic.

These were not the last colonists to plunder Swaziland. The discovery of gold in the early 1880s led to a decade-long flood of European prospectors into the kingdom hoping to stake their claims. Mswati II’s hier, King Mbandzeni, proved less adroit at dealing with European demands and was coerced into granting land and prospecting rights to settlers. The land concessions were often at odds with Swazi customary land usage and the influx of settlers, proved nearly disastrous for the Swazi kingdom. New European landowners whittled away chiefdom lands and refused to abide by Swazi laws and customs, which undermined King Mbandezeni’s authority. The nearly landless and broken Swazi monarchy was unable to successfully protest when the Boer government declared Swaziland a ZAR protectorate in 1894. The ZAR took control of the administration and protection of the kingdom, though traditional law and custom still nominally governed local affairs.

But things began to turn around for Swazi prospects for independence during the South African War of 1899-1902. Though the British victory reestablished their colonial control of Swaziland, the country itself was spared from fighting and many Boers and British settlers had left Swaziland to fight for colonial control in the South African countryside. In this time of flux, the Swazis had a keen leader who was prepared to navigate the country toward long-term independence. Queen Regent Labotsibeni, the wife of the late King Mbandzeni, was widely revered throughout the kingdom. Labotsibeni feared that in this new rule, the British would not uphold their old system of protection yet minimal interference in local affairs in her country. She was right - the British administration parceled out land for white settlers and invested large sums of money into sugar plantations and mining in the highveld. Labotsibeni, who had watched her late husband concede most of Swazi territory in the prior century, couldn’t bear further rescinding of Swazi rights. When the 1909 Land Partition Proclamation officially gave two-thirds of Swazi royal land to the white population and reserved only one-third for Swazis, Labotsibeni acted. The politically shrewd queen regent knew that she would not be able to challenge the British militarily. So while she petitioned the Crown to restore her country’s land rights, she also launched a campaign that asked Swazis to donate money and cattle in order to buy back their lost land. Many Swazi men travelled to South Africa to work in the mines, to raise money for the cause. The campaign proved successful and was continued by Labotsibeni’s heir, Sobhuza II, and over the next 50 years, the Swazi recouped over half of the land that they had lost.

Queen Labotsibeni also knew she had to ensure the future of her country by raising a king that could keep pace with the agendas of white foreigners. To do so, she ensured that her son received a modern education. Against the objections of the Swazi chiefs and the royal counsel, Labotsbeni established the Swaziland National School and future King Sobhuza II was one if its first students. Sobhuza II continued his education at the University of Lovedale in South Africa, where he came in contact with many future South African leaders, and in 1921 he was officially made king. At the time of his crowning, Sobhuza had received more formal education than some African leaders from the 1960s.

Throughout the first half of the 20th century, the British never lost the vision that the protectorate of Swaziland would one day be incorporated into some sort of union with South Africa. But this hope faded in the 1960s, when the apartheid government rose to power and independence movements spread across the continent. As the British conceded to the implementation of policies to allow for increased independence, King Sobhuza II and his royal council formed the Imbokodvo National Movement (INM), a political party based on traditional Swazi culture that pledged to maintain the kingdom’s unity. With its close ties to the rural heart of the nation, the INM easily secured a majority of the seats of the newly created Legislative Council in 1964. In an effort to unite with their opposition, the INM incorporated some of the demands of other political parties pushing for modernization and independence. In the 1967 elections, the INM won all of the seats in the legislative council. Self-governance was secured and on September 6, 1968 Swaziland became officially independent.

Swaziland’s first post-independence elections were held in 1972. To the King’s surprise, the rival Ngwane National Liberatory Congress (NNLC) won roughly 20 percent of the popular vote. In response, King Sobuza II abolished the British-inherited constitution and parliament and banned political parties and trade unions under the auspices of removing political practices inconsistent with traditional Swazi life. He created a less divisive method of voting conducted by tinkhundla, or regional councils modeled on the royal villages set up by Mswati II during the 1800s. Political power was consolidated in the monarchy and in 1979 a new parliament was convened comprised of individuals appointed by the king or elected through council.

At his death in 1982, Sobhuza II was revered as a strong, paternal and trusted king. During his reign, he had recouped lost Swazi land, led the country into independence and maintained the unity and cohesion of the country, though at the expense of political and civil rights. But political unrest and an internal power struggle followed the king’s death. The royal council began to undermine the authority of the queen regent and underground political movements, most notably the People’s United Democratic Movement (PUDEMO), emerged to call for democratic reforms and the abolition of royal rule. It was during this period of internal turmoil that that the relatively unknown King Mswati III returned from his schooling in London and was installed as king in 1986. Mswati III quickly took steps to strengthen his control and quell opposition. He abolished the royal council and in 1987 a new parliament was elected and new cabinet appointed.

Grassroots opposition to King Mswati III, Africa’s last absolute monarch, continued throughout the 1990s and student and labor movements pressured the king for political reform and increased democracy. In 2006, a new constitution came into effect, but has been criticized by human rights groups as mainly an extenuation of the status quo. Political parties are still banned and King Mswati still often rules by decree. In 2007, talks between the government and progressive groups over the constitution and the political future of Swaziland broke down and it remains to be seen how flexible King Mswati will be with ongoing demands for increased political freedom. Complicating the outlook of the nation is its high level of HIV and AIDS, which is ravaging the population. Swaziland has the highest HIV/AIDS rate in the world and traditional practices often come in conflict with prevention and treatment efforts.

Mbabane

GPS: S 25 28.133 E 030 58.448 | pop. 230,000 | elevation 684 m/2,244 ft

Mbabane (pronounced mm-buh-ban) is the Kingdom’s capital city. Many visitors pass through Mbabane after entering through Swaziland’s nearby main border post at Oshoek-Ngwenya. The city has a nice choice of hotels, restaurants and shopping malls, but if you plan to be in the area for a few days, it is worth your while to continue another 15 minutes to stay in the lovely of Eulwini Valley and Malkers Valley.

Ezulwini Valley

GPS: S 25 28.133 E 030 58.448 | pop. 230,000 | elevation 684 m/2,244 ft

Ezulwini Valley (Place of Heaven) is the heart of Swaziland and the country’s top tourist destination. The valley spans from the administrative capital Mbabane to the legislative capital of Lobamba, where the royal family lives. But it is also host to great natural wonders including a hot springs, waterfall and the one of the country’s most popular parks, the Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. Travelers who come to enjoy the valley’s great sights will have their choice of wonderful restaurant and accommodation options during their stay.

Mililwane Wildlife Sanctuary

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary (main entrance gate S 26 28.768 E 031 11.665, 6am-6pm, day visitors E25) was the fi rst private reserve established in Swaziland by conservationist Ted Reilly, who donated his 460-hectare farm to establish the wildlife sanctuary in 1961 out of concern for the disappearing wildlife in the area. Once established, the reserve was stocked with animals – partially from His Majesty’s wildlife stock in Hlane. The reserve’s name means “little fi re” which is derived from numerous area fi res started by lightning strikes. Mlilwane is known for its variety of bird life, and sightings of fi sh eagle, purple-crested lourie and at least three species of robins are common. But the reserve isn’t just for bird lovers - there are also plenty of ostrich, warthog and even hippos and giraffe.

Malkers Valley

GPS: S 25 28.133 E 030 58.448 | pop. 230,000 | elevation 684 m/2,244 ft Malkerns Valley is a popular stopover between the tourist friendly Ezulwini Valley and the main city of Manzini. Spotted with pineapple plantations and some of the best budget accommodation options in the country, Malkerns Valley has a growing reputation for its array of local craft shops and its community art scene.

Manzini

GPS: S 25 28.133 E 030 58.448 | pop. 230,000 | elevation 684 m/2,244 ft

Manzini is located in the center of Swaziland and is the principle commercial, industrial and transport hub of the country. The size of the downtown area makes it walkable by day but there are few tourist attractions in town. But the huge Manzini Market alone makes the city worth a visit, to wade through the hundreds of stalls selling food, crafts and traditional Swazi medicines.

Piggs Peak & Around

GPS: S 25 05.366 E 030 27.228 | pop. 20,000 | elevation 1,403 m/4,603 ft Piggs Peak gained its moniker from Frenchman William Pigg, who discovered gold in the area and founded a mining town in 1884. After the ore mines began to run dry, this small mountain town switched its focus to forestry, and built up sawmills to process pine trees from the surrounding area. Today, the focus of Piggs Peak has turned back to bringing in the gold – this time through the town’s main attraction, the Orion Piggs Peak Casino.

Malolotja Nature Reserve

GPS: S 25 05.366 E 030 27.228 | pop. 20,000 | elevation 1,403 m/4,603 ft

The Malolotja Nature Reserve (main gate S 26 08.823 E 031 08.301, 442-4241, www.sntc.org.sz, malolotjares@sntc.org.sz, 6am-6pm, E28) offers the unique opportunity to spot a number of endangered species including the Blue Swallow, Bald Ibis, Black Eagle and nocturnal Aardwolf. The nature reserve also has one of the world’s oldest mines and Swaziland’s highest waterfalls, the Malolotja Falls.

Simunye

GPS: S 25 05.366 E 030 27.228 | pop. 20,000 | elevation 1,403 m/4,603 ft

Simunye is a small company town centered around services related to Royal Swaziland Sugar Corporation. In Simunye and nearby Tambankulu the accommodation and eating options are limited to country clubs. These country clubs have the aura of private clubs from decades past and are worth checking out for the experience. But unless you are in a pinch for time, there are better accommodation options in any of the three nearby game and nature reserves.

Hlane Royal National Park

GPS: S 25 05.366 E 030 27.228 | pop. 20,000 | elevation 1,403 m/4,603 ft

Mbuluzi Game Reserve is a private reserve with a variety of game. Giraffe, kudu, nyala, zebra and many of the over 300 recorded bird species are commonly sighted within the reserve. The main entrance gate (S 26 09.361 E 031 58.970, 383-8861, www.mbuluzigamereserve.co.sz, 6am-6pm, vehicle E25, day visitors E25) is located on the MR28, a few hundred meters off of the MR3/Manzini-Lomahasha Rd.

Mlawula Nature Reserve

GPS: S 25 05.366 E 030 27.228 | pop. 20,000 | elevation 1,403 m/4,603 ft

Mlawula Nature Reserve’s entrance gate (S 26 10.809 E 031 59.900, MR28, 383-8885, www.sntc.org.sz, 6am-6pm, E25) is on the MR28 about 4 km from the Mbuluzi Game Reserve gate. The 16,500-hectare nature reserve was established in 1980 and has 54 km of roads and 10 walking trails. There are a number of game species including monkey, wildebeest, zebra, warthog, impala, kudu and nyala as well as hundreds of species of birds.